This is absolutely stupid and ridiculous! I've got to get up out of here. After another fall forecast of temperatures over 100 degrees, I knew that I needed to get up North to higher elevations and cooler climes. Summer just would not release her fiery grip on the valley. I was going to head North, and way North. I had a three day weekend, so a chunk of that time would be spent in the car. Oh well, such is the life during a Phoenix, Arizona area summer.
I decided on a bikepacking trip on the North Rim of Grand Canyon. The destination that I had in mind wouldn't do for a weekend backpacking trip due to the longer distance, but it would make for a leisurely bikepacking weekend. There are very few areas in the National Park where you can ride a bicycle off of pavement. The nasty, rutted out road to Point Sublime was legal for bicycles. I had ridden out there a couple of times on long day rides over the years and had noted the excellent, secluded campsites. There is little traffic as you need a high clearance four wheel drive vehicle to get out there. Perfect!
I called the backcountry information center and talked to a Ranger. One of the two campsites was open on the night that I planned to go! Score! With permit in hand I quickly hatched a plan and did some maintenance on my bike.
I drove out of town on a Friday after work. I was headed for a hotel room in Flagstaff for the night. I'd get up early on Saturday morning and make the nearly four hour drive to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. It would be a ton of driving for such a short trip. I was sure that it would be worth it.
My trusty old rig spent the night in my room with me. No way was I leaving it in the car overnight. Poachers Poach.
Wow! That is completely breathtaking! I stood there, literally dumbfounded by the scene unfolding in front of me. I was standing atop the old Navajo bridge, which spans the Colorado River in Marble Canyon, Arizona.
I had walked about halfway across the span. Behind me was the Colorado river, approximately twenty miles downstream from Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Powell. Underneath me, per the National Park Service, was almost 500 feet of air, followed by the Colorado River. In front of me, roosted on the supports of the new Navajo Bridge, were three of the elusive, critically endangered California Condors.
I couldn’t believe my good fortune at finally getting my eyes on a real life Condor in the flesh. In more trips to the Grand Canyon than I can count, I’d never been lucky enough to see one. That’s a good omen, I thought!
Despite the captivating nature of the encounter, I beat a hasty retreat. I had places to be and things to do.
I always love to see this sign! Finally made it to the National Park. In twenty minutes or so I'd be at the trailhead. I was super pumped to see that the Aspen trees had started popping a bit into their fall colors. I could not wait to get out there as I knew that my route was littered with big Aspen stands.
Finally! Hitting the trail. The temperature was beautiful. It was in the 70s. It would hit the upper 30s at night. Exactly what I was looking for.
Gotta love the Aspens. It was a bit breezy, so they were shaking and quaking. Many of them were in prime color, but it wouldn't be peak foliage season up there for another week. Bummer, but I'll take what I can get. It was nevertheless spectacular.
Ran into this good sized flock of turkeys in the first half hour. They were running around like crazy. It was incredible to see. Less than an hour later a beautiful mule deer buck ran across the road right in front of me. Super cool, but much too fast for me to get a photo
At some point along the way, as you continue the 18 mile ride, there is a beautiful view at the end of a small detour to the left. I'm not sure if this tributary canyon is Crystal Canyon or not. No matter, it is stunning. I've had a couple of picnic lunches at this incredible, remote spot.
I was in no hurry at this point. I had some fun checking the place out. I was enjoying the complete solitude. I had a snack and some water and was on my way. I had to carry all of my water with me for the entire trip as there are no water sources anywhere in the area, at least that I know of.
It was so nice to spend so much time meandering around a forest of giant Ponderosa Pine, a ton of Douglas Fir, and equally large quantities of Aspen trees. While I love the flora and fauna back down in the Valley, nothing beats this in my opinion.
As you make the approach to Sublime, you travel over what I can best describe is a land bridge. The area narrows dramatically as you can see the Canyon on both sides of the road. The road also has a pretty good downhill aspect to it at that point. I was pretty pleased to have made it to this point. It would not be much longer!
Once you get out to the end, Point Sublime, you have a 270 degree view of the Grand Canyon. There is no better view anywhere in the National Park, in my opinion. Cape Solitude is right there, but definitely isn't better, in my opinion. Part of what I enjoy about them is the journey to get there. You can't just hop out of your tour bus to see these views. You've got to earn them.
Take a little tour of Point Sublime! Does it get any more beautiful than this? As a matter of fact, it does!
I knew that the night would bring a new moon. The forecast was for clear skies. I also knew that there would be zero light pollution. Grand Canyon NP is a certified dark sky National Park. In short, the conditions would hopefully be perfect for being able to see, and thus photograph, the Milky Way. I brought a tripod and researched how to best take night photos with my phone!
After gaping at the views for a while and just checking out the place, I went back to my campsite, a couple of hundred yards or so back up the road. I needed to set up camp, and I was ravenously hungry after the day’s activities. I noted that I nearly had the entire place to myself. There was a couple parked with their over landing rig in the other campsite. They seemed very quiet.
I had brought a dehydrated meal that I had made. Moose stew. My Dad had harvested the moose in the previous fall and had given me quite a few pounds of meat. It dehydrates and rehydrates really well. I had some onions, peppers, mushrooms, rice, and some seasonings. It was amazing! Mixed up some hot chocolate and I was good to go!
I hustled back down to Pt Sublime for the sunset. It remains to this day one of the most legendary sunsets I’ve ever been fortunate enough to witness.
Every minute that the sun was setting changed the landscape significantly. The shadows and colors hitting the different aspects of the terrain created an almost kaleidoscope effect.
A spectacular view of the distant San Francisco's visible far away on the horizon. The next time I'm on Humphrey's I'll have to remember to look for Point Sublime!
One last snap before darkness finally hits. I lingered around for an hour or two in the vain hopes of shooting some Milky Way shots.
The silence was deafening. The darkness was blinding. I could not manage to find the Milky Way, much less get any shots of it. I'll have to try again someday. Crud!
I retreated back to my tent. I read a book for a while and then drifted off to sleep. Some time at a much later hour, I was awoken by a tremendous shaking of my tent. I noted that the temperature was really chilly. Was it a bear or a mountain lion or some crazed two legged creature? I prepared to repel boarders. After a few seconds it became apparent that I was in a heck of a wind storm. I tossed and turned for the rest of the night.
I got up before the first traces of the sun appeared. I wanted to be able to take some pictures and to witness what I just knew was going to be an excellent sunrise. It was spectacular! I lingered as long as I could and then went back to camp. I had to break down camp and ride for a couple of hours to the car. Once back at the car I had a 6.5 hour drive home. Not ideal!
The couple that were staying in the other campsite offered me the last of their extra water. They were in a beautiful overlanding vehicle and thus were able to carry a lot of water. I gratefully accepted. I would now be able to have a couple of cups of coffee and would not have to conserve water at all. I knew that I could really use the coffee to help get me going. I fired up my stove and had a bowl of oatmeal and some coffee. Definitely one of the best "coffee shops" I've ever been to!
Fueled for the day, I loaded up my bike and hit the trail. The weather couldn't have been any better. Brilliant sunshine and temps in the 60's. There are some long, extremely rocky climbs on this road. I was able to take my bike for some beautifully long hikes throughout the course of the morning.
It was nice to finally make it back to the trailhead. This little slice of taxpayer funded heaven was a welcome sight. Anyone getting between me and a cheeseburger at this point would be putting themselves into extreme peril!
What an excellent trip! It's always so much fun to load up the bike with gear and head out into the backcountry. This trip did involve a lot of driving, but it was well worth it!
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