In the words of many an old Coca Cola commercial, it was indeed the "Pause that refreshes". No, I wasn't guzzling down a bottle of coca cola, though that would have done wonders for my parched gullet. What I had done, after having fallen victim to a dose of peer pressure, was plunged into the crystalline, emerald green, renewing waters of the Colorado river at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. As I lay back, trying to appear as nonchalant about it as possible, I felt the weary heat begin to ebb away from my body. It was a pleasant respite from the day's activities. I began to be enveloped by a soothing numbness. Shit, that water is cold, I thought. At a temperature in the mid 40s, I didn't linger. I casually waded back to shore, and paused once again in a much less refreshing manner, and slugged down the remaining tepid mixture of water and electrolytes in my bottle. Mixed berry had seemed so enticing at one point. I was ready to head to the canteen and partake in a much more refreshing beverage. I digress.
Dad had wanted to get Sydney into the Canyon for years, but the time had just not been right, what with a stint at Elon, followed up by a Masters degree program at NC State and other such trivial pursuits!! I guess you have to have priorities in life, but Canyon!! Finally, the time was right and Dad had managed to score a hard to draw permit for a night at Phantom Ranch. I can't think of a better way to experience the Canyon on your first foray. The cabin held four beds, so Dad invited Codie and I to join them. Codie had never really hiked in the Canyon much and had never stayed at Phantom before, so I was really excited for both of them to experience the Canyon.
We had 13 months to prepare and Codie and Syd acquired the necessary gear, and studied up on what to expect. Codie and I did some hiking together, and I knew that we were going to be well prepared. Organizing and preparing for trips like this is definitely my thing, so I probably overwhelmed them with a bit too much information. Such is life.
We'd decided that on the night before, we'd head up and enjoy a nice dinner in Flagstaff and then make the quick trip to Williams, AZ to spend the night. We'd get on the road early in order to beat the substantial crowds accessing the park these days. I also wanted to get on the trail early and do the bulk of the hiking before the heat of the day.
Dad and Syd safely arrived in AZ and after a blizzard of last minute shopping, we were on the road headed to Flagstaff. Thankfully, since it wasn't a Friday, traffic was light.
Soon enough we were in Flagstaff and headed over to Beaver Street Brewery. If you've never been to BSB, I'd advise you to check it out the next time you find yourself in Flagstaff. Their burgers and wood fired pizzas are a delight to the palate. The oatmeal stout is an excellent product. With full bellies and the yawn monsters in full attack mode, we made the quick pilgrimage to the La Quinta in Williams.
In a display that would have made even the toughest, strongest sherpa cringe in agony, we schlepped all of our gear up to our rooms. Somehow it seemed like we'd errantly selected the rooms that were as far from our car as possible, yet still at the hotel. Well, crud!! Surprisingly, we seemed to have quite a bit of gear, despite being sans tents, sleeping bags, stoves, etc.
The next morning, after a couple of cups of pseudo-serviceable hotel room coffee, we loaded up the rig and set sail for the Canyon. We had a large sack of day old egg mcmuffins from good ole Mickey D's, so we were set for breakfast. I'd known that nothing would be available in Williams at 4:00 AM. Even McDonalds had the effrontery to be closed. Where had I seen that before? I had also picked up a few baked goods from Sprouts in Flagstaff.
We made the approach to the entrance gate around 6:10. Right on schedule. There was nobody in line. In just a couple of hours, the line would grow substantially, requiring a wait of over two hours to get in. My plan was to take the 7:00 AM Hiker's express shuttle to the South Kaibab trailhead, where we would begin our hike. This would be an approximate 10 minute ride. Had we not made the shuttle, it would have been another hour, at least. We parked the car and began to get ready.
Everyone checked, double, and even triple checked their gear! We were ready! We headed over to the shuttle stop at the backcountry information center parking lot. The NPS posts a lot of info about trail conditions, water availability, and any other pertinent information germane to backcountry travelers.
After a few minutes of waiting, the shuttle arrived and we climbed on board. Yes, masks required. Many of the seats were blocked off to allow for social distancing. I'll be glad when this is over.
After a quick ride, we were at the trailhead. It was a beautiful morning, nice and crisp, with a slight breeze. We soaked up the sights and shot a few pics. We shot up the sights and soaked a few pics. It was relatively quiet. We appeared to have beaten the masses.
We'd hike together for most of the day. I wanted to be able to take pics of the gang and help them experience the canyon. Sometimes I have to focus less on the banality of the corridor trails and focus more on the scenery. The scenery really never gets old and sharing the Canyon with Dad is always a cherished experience.
Sydney and Codie taking in the heady delights of "Ooh Aah" point. This is really the first 270 degree view of the Canyon's splendor. It's about a mile into the hike and thus where many folks turn around, especially the smart ones.
Simply love this pic of Codie. Not sure how she pulled it off in a windy, dirty canyon, but there's definitely a certain sense of elegance there. It must be the tilt of the hat! Doesn't that smile say it all? We all had huge smiles on our faces.
You can see where the trail meanders way down below. After the trail disappears from view, it begins it's plunge down into the inner gorge and the Colorado river.
The approach to Ooh Aah point.
Within an hour or so after our departure from Ooh Aah point we pulled into Cedar Ridge. It's a great place to eat your lunch. Plenty of big rocks to sit on. There are bathrooms. We set up for a few minutes, snacked, evacuated and took a few pics. This big old raven was eye-balling my carcass. Not today, Shitbird, not today!! Hopefully not tomorrow either!
The smile says it all. I think Syd fell in love with the Canyon.
Continuing the trek. At this point we were halfway there. The temps were still pretty reasonable, but outer layers had been shed. We'd hike for a few miles before reaching our next destination, Tip Off.
Tip Off has always been a stop for SK trail hikers, as well as folks passing by on the East/West traveling Tonto trail, which is another thoroughfare, connecting many of the rim to river trails in the Canyon. It does not, in and of itself, reach the river. Tip off has always had an emergency phone, as well as restrooms. Typically there is zero water, shade, or seating of any kind, except the thrones, which incidentally, do not inspire one to loiter. Since I'd last been on SK, the NPS had flown in, by NPS helicopter, a large shade structure, with seats, for folks to be able to get a bit of a respite from the sun and the fun. Also, two large rain-water collection cisterns were mounted on the structure., which would enable those in dire straits to be able to get some water in an area entirely bereft of it naturally. I'd been wanting to check it out in person. This was always an area where many ill-fated hikes ended in a most unfortunate manner, so the NPS decided to try to improve the situation. I'm glad that they did. What a gem!
This little shitbird thought he was cute. Trying to get at my snacks. Wasn't gonna happen, but if you take your eye off them for a second, they'll rob you blind. The coterie of Grand Canyon rodents must have a heck of a communication network as they always know that you're coming. "Hey Merle, this is Fred, yeah, FYI, you got 4 hikers coming at you. The big dopey looking one has pringles, but he's real protective of them. Just be careful. My best to Marge".
One last little slice of taxpayer funded heaven before we hit the river.
Starting to get some glimpses of the river. What a great sight that is. On a relatively calm day you can hear the river's roar even before you see it. It was running clear, looking emerald green. After a big dam release, some good rainfall, or a big flood from tributary rivers, Little Colorado and Paria, the Colorado will run a milky brown color. Not nearly as appealing to the eye!
We spotted this young looking Desert Bighorn Sheep ewe, and her lamb on the way in. They were pretty funny and just as nimble as they always appear to be. Seeing Bighorn or Desert Bighorn sheep never fails to inspire awe in me.
Checking out the action on the river. Tough to beat a river trip on the Colorado! I've never had the chance to actually pilot a kayak through the bowels of Grand Canyon, but I'd love to on my next river trip.
Cruising through the tunnel at the bottom! This tunnel leads to the black bridge which spans the Colorado. Hitting this tunnel is always nice because you know you're nearly there, or it sucks because you know that now the work really begins. Depends on if you're climbing or descending!
The gang made it. The first time you go through that tunnel and cross the bridge it's pretty memorable. Especially if it's windy!!
We made a beeline for Phantom and checked into our cabin. The cabins are pretty rustic and are really cool. They are air-conditioned and have a sink with running water and a commode. Not a whole lot else, including space. If you are the sort frequently smote by the Gods of Nocturia, allow me to recommend the bottom bunks. Climbing down those rickety ladders in the middle of the night does not a pleasant experience make. Not ideal!
Come to find out that beer cannot be purchased at the canteen until dinner, about 4 hours later. Well, crud!! Dejectedly we decided to repair to boat beach and relax and cool off in the Colorado's chilly waters. We brought snacks and refreshments. We snacked, and we refreshed. Some of us refreshed more than others. That's just what you'll sometimes have just when it is that you find yourself in a situation just like this one, and frankly, a few others as well. To each his or her own, I've always said!
Right before I dove in.
Boat beach is where river trips, both commercial and private, land their boats. They'll maybe pay a visit to Phantom, or pick up supplies or more likely take on or drop off passengers that are completing only the upper or lower half of the river, as it were. Passengers joining up will have hiked in from the rim and folks leaving the trip will hike up to the rim. It's anywhere from a 7 to 14 mile hike depending on which trail you use and to which rim.
I don't think that that steak had a chance!! I would have felt in peril had I gotten between Dad and that steak!
After a few pleasant hours, and thankfully post-evening ablutions, the dinner bell was ringing, metaphorically speaking. It had been a long, but outstanding day in one of the most beautiful places on earth. More often than not, there's no place I'd rather be than in the Grand Canyon. How could it get any better? Somehow, Phantom Ranch found a way to gild that lily!! We were provided with an outstanding steak dinner with all of the sides. Fresh tossed salad, corn bread, baked potato, butter, etc. All shipped in on the mule trains. Dessert was some sort of packaged brownie, which definitely was not up to the usual "Chocolate Cake" standard at Phantom, but was nonetheless quite appreciated! We also picked up a few beverages from Grand Canyon brewery, made right in Williams! We were definitely walking in tall cotton! The food is served to-go due to Covid. Yeah, did I mention that I'll be glad when this is over?
Within 45 minutes or so, all that was left was the wreckage of four steak dinners. It was a proper feast.
The ephemeral sunset. With Phantom being in a side canyon, catch the sunset whilst you can, as it is fleeting.
After dinner we decided to walk off some of that grub. As the daylight was ebbing, we elected to head North on the North Kaibab trail for a mile or two to loosen up the legs and to help digest some of our meal.
After that it was definitely time to retire. I was beat. I think everyone else was too. I hammered down a few ibuprofen and a benadryl and was shortly thereafter peacefully asleep. 4:00 AM will sneak up on you pretty quickly!
The old man hammering down a little bit of world famous Phantom Ranch coffee at 5AM. Not sure if the stuff is really all that great or if it's just the atmosphere and the vibe of where you are, but I've always loved it.
About to get on the road. Nine miles and over 5K of gain await. Easy peasy!
This Mule deer fawn was headed down to the creek for a morning sip. The Grand Canyon is rife with deer in most any area that has water.
The approach and crossing of the silver bridge over the Colorado. When the wind is really whipping, there'll be a noticeable sway. Inevitably it's either pitch black or early AM when I'm crossing this bridge. I've actually been fortunate enough to see a few sunsets and sunrises from this bridge.
The gang coming across. It was Sydney's and Codie's first time across the bridge.
I've always enjoyed the river trail. Not too much climbing, but a nice warmup. There is just tremendous scenery everywhere you look in this area.
The gang getting it done on the river trail before the trail intersects with the Bright Angel trail. Still looking fresh and sassy. We'd see about that, in 9 miles and over 5K feet of climbing, later!! The Canyon will show you no mercy. It'll chew you up and spit you out before you even knew you were on the menu.
If you've ever read more than a paragraph of any one of my blogs, you are not surprised to see this little gem thrown in. It's actually a delightful little port in whatever storm you may be in the midst of.
Getting ready to make the approach to the aptly named, "Devil's Corkscrew" portion of the Bright Angel trail. Surprisingly, much of the trail is a riparian area until one departs Indian Gardens. Depending on the time of year, the flora can be quite eye-catching. As we cruised through this area, we noted quite a herd of mule deer, including a nice buck in full velvet.
Roughly halfway up, posing for a few pics.
The beginning of Devil's corkscrew. It's a long grind taking one from the inner gorge up to the Tonto plateau. There are many switchbacks and many unprepared, and probably a few prepared, hikers get into distress. Personally, I love it. If I'm not encumbered with a heavy pack I typically fly up as fast as I can for the challenge. In this instance I stayed a tad ahead of the gang so that I could shoot photos and videos of them.
The gang continuing to grind away. It's just a couple of miles, but they are very steep miles.
Almost there. Nicely done! At the top of Devil's Corkscrew is a nice little saddle with some beautiful views. On the backside of the saddle is a sweet little spot where the creek is visible and flows through the area. It's down in a small side canyon and I've always taken quick breaks in that edenic little spot. I intended to wait for the gang and take a break with them. I'd always wanted to somehow get down to the creek and soak my feet in there. Of all the times I'd been through I'd never seen an obvious route to get down there, though admittedly I'd never really spent much time exploring. In this instance I had some time and was eventually able to navigate a not-so sketchy route down there.
I just cannot get enough of places like this. I seek them out as often as I can. As far as the Canyon is concerned, I have not yet even begun to scratch the surface in terms of places like this to explore.
Somewhat reluctantly, we departed. I thought that they'd have to dynamite me out of there, but it was time to go. We had places to be and shit to do!
Within an hour or two we steamed into Indian Gardens. It's a nice rest stop with bathrooms, shade, potable water, a creek, and an absolutely beautiful campground. We snacked and took care of a few other necessary chores.
It would be an approximately 4.5 mile hike to the top, with about 3K feet of gain. The last 4 miles or so are fairly steep, with a few gentler slopes seemingly thrown in just when you need them.
Of course you can't have a Grand Canyon post without the de rigueur mule train shot thrown in. The mules are a necessary evil. If you consume anything at all at Phantom Ranch, it came in on a mule. They are used to haul jackhammers, compressors, generators, etc and other heavy gear needed for critical trail repairs. They also haul in the tourists. Some folks who maybe can't hike that far or don't want to. Getting stuck behind a mule train, when you're in a hurry, can be aggravating! Big puddles of mule urine and large piles of mule stool are not exactly aromatic. However, the mules have been there long before anyone else and will be there long after I'm gone, so it is what it is. I digress.
Doing more grinding than Dunkin! Getting there. Exactly 1.5 miles after departing IG, you'll come to what's called 3 Mile rest house. Depending on the time of year, IE warmer months, there is potable water. There is a shade structure, seating, an emergency phone, restrooms, and a shitload of people. Typically, I take care of my needs as rapidly as possible and move on. The Canyon won't climb itself and you aren't going to get out of the Canyon by sitting there.
Amazingly enough, just 1.5 miles after 3 mile rest-house, you'll come to another rest-house. Raise your hand if you can guess the name of that little oasis. Put down the phone. No googling allowed. Yes, you there, you're right. It's 1.5 mile rest house. Everything I said about 3 mile is exactly the same as I'd say about 1.5 mile, except that the shitload of people is a much bigger shitload. Many folks, especially those that are smart and just want a taste of the Canyon without getting into any trouble, will turn around here. Kudos to them.
The view from near the top of Bright Angel. If you look close enough in the upper third of the photo, and to the right, you can see the tiny dot that is 3 mile rest-house. The green "splotch" in the upper middle of the photo is Indian Gardens showing off those beautiful Cottonwoods.
Nearly there. Maybe 10 minutes away. I love this part of the trail and the feeling that I get when I reach it. It's kind of bitter-sweet, because on the one hand you might be a bit tired or perhaps wanting to house a cheeseburger or an entire pizza, and on the other hand it's a bummer because you're nearly off the trail and back to reality.
There are a couple of tunnels like this, within the last mile. I love when you're hiking at night and you don't know that this tunnel is there until you go under it, and then you know you're close. Usually an uplifting feeling.
That's it. Game over. The last few steps. I think that that building is a studio of some sort. It's not Kolb studio, but something else. I've actually never been in any of the buildings along the rim in that specific area. Studios typically aren't my jam. Maybe someday.
The official rim terminus of the Bright Angel trail. I wonder how many millions of snaps have been taken at this locale. I'd imagine quite a few.
The old man banging out his version of a "mic drop". I couldn't blame him. He'd earned it. I might have been a bit peeved if he'd done that with one of my new carbon trekking poles, but those old aluminum rigs are bomb proof!!
We finished the trail and began the hike to the ice cream shop. I'd told the gang that it was tradition upon exiting the Canyon to partake in the ice cream shop, if it was during it's operating hours. It was. Sadly, at least another 100 folks were participating in that tradition. Well, crud!! We moved on. Denied!!
We eventually worked our way to the rig after enjoying some refills of cold water. Syd was dealing with a little bit of GI upset, so we got on the road and stopped in Flagstaff to refuel and hammer down some grub.
We didn't want to linger in Flagstaff so we elected to just get some food to go. There was a Cane's chicken restaurant in the same parking lot as the gas station. We loaded up and got on the road. The food was incredible and hit the spot. I'd never had Cane's before, but it was pretty solid.
This was an extremely memorable trip and I can't thank Dad enough. I've been fortunate enough to share the Canyon with Dad on a number of spectacular occasions, including my first ever Canyon trip.
Everything was smooth the entire way and we had great weather in which to enjoy it. I'd never really spent much time with Syd, so that was a great opportunity. Additionally, I hadn't spent that much time with Codie since high school, so that was most enjoyable. We didn't even get into one fight!!
I'm really looking forward to more trips with these guys!! Thank you to all three of you for being incredible companions on this trip.
I love you were able to experience this memorable experience with your dad and sisters!!❤️
ReplyDeleteThanks Babe! I couldn't agree more! ❤
ReplyDeleteExcellent blog! I really enjoyed it! ♥️♥️♥️ Jo
ReplyDeleteThanks Jo. I appreciate it. Would love to have you join sometime!
DeleteLove this! Next time, the Ingram/Good clan join!
ReplyDeleteThat sounds great!! Would love to do that. Assuming this is Hayley, I did my first ever Canyon trip with your Dad. He is the one responsible for my lifelong love of the Canyon!!
DeleteAll I can say is, Oh My Gosh, Joshua. Thank you for sharing that gruelingly beautiful adventure. I don't know if I will ever be able to make that trip but I feel as though I have been there and have viewed Phantom Ranch and the Bright Angel trail via your blog. Kudos to your family. Your Dad gives hope to senior citizens.
ReplyDeleteWow! Thank you for the feedback. That's one of the main reasons why I write the blog as I do. I want to take the reader on the trip, if you will. Dad is a machine. He has been his entire life. I've seen folks in their mid 80s banging out this route!!
ReplyDelete